Sushi Hunter:Sushi in North Beach Buffet

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(potstickers, crunchy + tempura roll)

Traveling to Tokyo two years ago, I ate the best sushi of my life at the Tsukiji fish market so I consider the “all- you- can eat sushi buffet” an oxymoron in the Japanese culinary culture. However, I was pleasantly surprised after my visit to a recent buffet created by owners Hanson and Christy Lau, who presented some unique offerings that made my meal worthwhile. As the stand-alone Japanese restaurant in the rustic Italian district of North Beach, Sushi Hunter quietly sits in the corner of the Powell street hill, surprising patrons daily with a rowdy ambiance.
Ocean blue walls and giant marlins serve as the centerpiece, creating a sea harbor décor. The sushi bar is illuminated with neon sapphire lights to create a sensual mood. Big screen TVs broadcast sporting events while jovial patrons participate in sake festivities. The waiting staff is attentive to refill drinks and to take the customers’ next round of order.

The all-you-can-eat sushi bar offers fifty made-to-order items. The menu includes appetizers, cooked entrees, nigiri sushi, and sushi rolls. Sprinkled with sesame, the spinach appetizer is a great starter. Not overwhelmed by any sauces, the natural taste of spinach shines through the dish. With a gelatinous texture, the seaweed salad offers a cool crunch. The miso soup is slightly diluted so an added teaspoon of miso paste would have rounded out the kelp and bonito flakes. Without price as an issue, I ordered a selection of nigiri sushi (served in pairs). Arriving on a black lacquer plate, the sushi displays a myriad of colors, creating an appetizing canvas. Smothered with a slather of teriyaki sauce, the buttery eel could have used a dash of sugar in the sauce. The salt cured mackerel combines a strong savory taste with a rich finish. For a sweet sea crunch, the squid nigiri will do the trick. With a creative spin, the seared tuna flaunts a slightly smoky crust with a sweetly mild interior. Melt-in-your-mouth, buttery yellowtail sets an example of sweet, fresh fish. The Japanese often finish a nigiri meal with tamago (the sweet omelette). Created by layering thin, fried eggs, the combination of pungent eggs, mirin, and sugar ends a great nigiri set. Unlike other all -you-can-eat sushi places, Sushi Hunter serves a reasonable portion of fish to rice ratio.

For the next round, I sampled a few sushi rolls that did not disappoint. Putting a new twist on a classic, the fried California roll contrasts a crunchy tempura crust with a buttery sweetness from the rice and the imitation crab meat. With a shimmering seaweed cast, the shrimp tempura roll delights the palate as it combines chewy seaweed and crispy shrimp. Pan-fried with a chewy skin and crispy brown bottom, the gyoza (Japanese potsticker), was the best appetizer of the night. Cooked al dente, the udon satisfied my comfort food appetite; however, the soup base needed a dash of salt. Fried till golden brown, the chicken karaage is a great Japanese version of the chicken nugget; a quick dunk in soy sauce adds even more flavor. Contrasting the texture from the mackerel sushi, the grilled mackerel features a nutty, savory skin that balances out the flaky, mild meat. Coated with a light batter, the shrimp and vegetable tempura is meant to be dunked ever-so-slightly to sustain crunchiness and prevent a soggy coating. A floral green tea ($1.50 each) refreshes the palate and ends a great feast. For the entire meal, with tax and tip, I spent sixty dollars for two people.

Behind the tandem team of Hanson and Kristy Lau, Sushi Hunter has gone through challenging times. Their previous partner was caught in a money laundering scandal. Despite debts, litigation battles, and the troubled economy from 9-11, the restaurant survived on pure determination. Immigrating from Hong Kong to pursue the American dream, the owners were determined to carry Sushi Hunter through the hurdles. Desiring to differentiate themselves from most Japanese restaurants, the owners chose the Italian eatery row (North Beach) and an all-you-can-eat menu. Sushi Hunter is a great neighborhood restaurant if you’re in the mood for an elaborate tasting menu.

Restaurant Consultant.
Japanese seafood buffets hit mainstream with Todai sprouting across the United States. Most restaurant owners make their profit from beverages and customers that simply eat very little food. Food cost is usually kept around 23% since the menu does not change often. This allows the purchasers to order ingredients at high volume and low cost. A major fixed cost in a restaurant is fixed rent so hiring a great banquet manager is key. Keeping the restaurant seats empty leads to a big lost. The banquet manager should have an out going personality and be involved in many clubs or associations. This is a great place to generate leads. Celebrations such as baby showers, birthdays, corporate outings, and local sports can produce an increase in revenue by around 30%. Another place to generate profit is to have a to go program where patrons can grab a to go box and fill it with foods of their choice.

Visit Campusfork.com for more food reviews.
1701 Powell Street
(between Columbus Ave & Union St)
San Francisco, CA 94133
(415) 291-9268
Mon-Thu 5:00 p.m.-10:00 p.m.
Fri 5:00 p.m.-11:00 p.m.
Sat 1:30 p.m.-11:00 p.m.
Sun 1:30 p.m.-9:30 p.m.

About Rayfil Wong

Entrepreneur + food addict
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